Diamond Dyes of Burlington: Color and Craft in Vermont

By Juls Sundberg

In today's world of fast fashion, it might seem strange to imagine dyeing a piece of clothing a different color instead of purchasing something new. But home dyeing used to be a well-practiced and thrifty way to keep your wardrobe fresh. The fabric dye of choice for Vermonters was Diamond Dyes, produced by a Burlington-based company called Wells, Richardson & Company. A 1926 booklet from the company held by the Vermont Historical Society titled "Color Craft” explains "The most expensive dress is that which hangs unworn in your closet. A dress you bought long ago may be made the fashion of the house with half an hour's deft dyeing."

Founded in 1872 by Edward Wells, Albert E. Richardson, and William J. Van Pattern, the company also manufactured a wide range of goods and pharmaceutical products, including the famous Paine's Celery Compound. This widely popular patent medicine was originally produced by M.K. Paine of Windsor, Vermont, which touted it as a way to sooth nerves. The buildings that once housed the Wells, Richardson &Company still stand in downtown Burlington on College Street and are registered in the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.

The company’s advertising was creative and full of practical advice on how to use their dyes. Amongst the items in VHS’s holdings are "A Teddy Bear Tale," a booklet from 1907 with illustrations incorporating Diamond Dyes, and "American Bird Pictures," a booklet from 1900 meant to be colored in with Diamond Dyes crayons. Other items include more typical advertising materials, such as a book titled "Samples of Colors Made by Diamond Dyes," in which fabrics dyed with the advertised colors are pasted into the book for people to see, and a Wells, Richardson & Company catalog from 1878 listing dye colors such as “Diamond Fuchsine Red.”

Home dyeing wasn't just for clothing. A ca. 1900 booklet titled "Fancy Work and Art Decorations with Diamond Dyes," features instructions on how to dye household items such as lampshades, pillows, and tablecloths.

These advertisements often emphasized staying with the latest fashion without spending too much money. One ad assured the reader, "The woman with tact and good taste can save many dollars…yet dress her family quite as well as a richer neighbor who has less faculty."

Since part of the company’s mission was to teach its customers the process of home dyeing, in addition to selling their products, these booklets and advertisements give the reader a peek into early examples of the do-it-yourself crafting and sustainable clothing practices still prevalent in Vermont today.

The inside cover of "Color Craft" emphasizes the local Vermont setting of Diamond Dyes by saying, "This beauteous region, with its gorgeous sunsets, is a splendid setting for those who work with color. Nature's own inspiration is at ever at their door." So, if the next time you see one of our state’s truly beautiful sunsets and feel inspired to head to your local craft store for fabric dye, know you are continuing a time-honored Vermont practice.

This article originally appeared in the Summer/Fall 2023 issue of our member magazine, History Connections. To get it and support the Vermont Historical Society, sign up as a member.